|Damian Fulton: Cacophony in Sea Minor|
I wanted to write some lines about this sport for quite sometime, because I'm part of it for more than 30 years now. I've seen people come and go and people taking advantage of the sport and it's image for a long time. I've been silenced many times and decided to just step aside and witness all good and bad that has been done to the "sport of kings" over the years in Portugal in a particular way and in the world in a wider vision. Even though people will continue to do bad things many years from now, the waves and boardriding will always be there for the taking.
Everyone is dropping a wave nowadays and that action is of course clogging all known lineups. From surf schools to pro and free surfers, everybody battles for a piece of the place where the waves are breaking. It's a battle out there and is becoming more and more inconvenient the just show up on peak and get one for the ride. It's just unbelievable how many surfers, bodyboarders, SUP's, kayakers, kite-surfers, windsurfers and all other "junk" types that are suppose to drop-in on us on any given wave. Adding to all those people, the newcomers that surf schools are throwing at the peaks all the time.
I'm beginning to get fed up with all this and I'm seriously thinking about giving up on surfing. It's not magical anymore. It's all about competition, maneuvers, the best wetsuit, the best board, the best paintjob, the best stickers, the best set of fins and a bunch of other bullshit that tend to be more important than surfing itself. The simple wave sliding movement used to be fun and get the attention of all others on land, but the mass of kids throwing air tricks and gouges on any wave it's ridiculous. Riding a wave to shore has to be much more than that nowadays. It has to be a statement with an attitude to all these younger guys as if their manhood would need these signature moves to distinguish themselves from the crowd.
Pathetic is what I can come up with. All surf companies and surf brands push the limits of athletes and non-athletes so they can be better with just one purpose: stand out... for what? They can't employ or sponsor everyone with nice moves... it's just stupid and counterproductive. Why bother to be seen if our objective is just to surf and have fun?
Let's just think about this for a moment and reply to these thoughts. Of course this is just an old surfer thinking out loud :) Cut me some slack :)